Abhinav Mishra
There are now more fluid lehengas and saris alongside structured blouses, corsetry, jackets, capes and architectural silhouettes, says Abhinav Mishra. Pre-draped and easy-to-wear formats are preferred. For men, traditional kurta-pyjama is being reinterpreted through wider trousers, shorter kurtas, layered jackets and bandhgalas with slightly more contemporary proportions. “Traditional techniques such as mirror work, gotta, zardozi, aari and hand embroidery continue to have a strong place, but they are appearing in newer silhouettes,” he adds. For women, a lehenga can be styled with a structured or unconventional blouse; a sari can be pre-draped or paired with a jacket; and Anarkali can become much more architectural through its cut and layering. “There is a growing appreciation for craft over excess. People still want the joy, colour and glamour associated with Indian celebrations, but they also want to understand what makes a piece special,” he says. “Festival dressing should feel celebratory, but it should also allow you to actually participate in the celebration.”
Jatin Kochhar
Jatin Kochhar sees festive menswear embracing ethnic silhouettes with a contemporary, body-conscious twist. Slimmer, thigh-length kurtas are being paired with roomier Aligarhi pyjamas, while prominent yokes, V-necks and deeper necklines lend definition. Embroidery is becoming bolder and more dimensional, with metal-wire applique, dabka and pronounced 3D detailing replacing conventional machine work. Mirror work, too, is finding greater acceptance among men willing to experiment with louder looks. Personally drawn to luxurious Italian fabrics and Lycra knits, the designer favours the elegance of rich textures and nuanced shades over excessive bling, though “mirror work for men has been well accepted and is going louder”.
Show Shaa by Ashima Kumar Sood
Pre-draped fish-cut saris, corsets, experimental sweetheart necklines, unconventional lehenga blouses and contemporary pants sets define festival dressing. Contrasting resham embroidery, cut dana and sequins add glamour. The new festival collection, Anaara, embodies this fusion: Mayurang pairs a Chanderi silk skirt and crop top with vibrant prints and hand embroidery, while Meherang combines fluid silhouettes with traditional detailing. Paisleys, pomegranates and florals complement fitted contemporary cuts. For men, short kurtas, embroidered waistcoats, layered bandis and silk blazers with colourful resham and mirror work offer fresh alternatives. Ultimately, individual styling — through belts, jackets, jewellery or inventive draping — makes traditional clothing feel new.
Pawan Sachdevaa
“We are seeing longer kurtas, wider trousers, easy kurta-pants, and sharper bandhgalas with more play with proportion and layering,” says Pawan Sachdevaa. Tonal embroidery, geometric patterns, metallic touches and fine handwork are being used. Men are going for metallics, shimmer and embellishment, especially for Diwali parties. “They are experimenting much more. You have kurta-pants, kurta with a jacket, kurta-salwar, Indo-Western looks, and even a bandhgala layered with a kurta.”
Roseroom by Isha Jajodia
Isha Jajodia envisions festival dressing as a balance of femininity, structure and ease. Think lace-applique saris or lehengas paired with embellished bombers, sculpted corsetry, defined waists, fluid jackets, draped skirts and pocketed lehengas styled with frilled lace tops. For men, sharply cut kurtas, bandhgalas and crafted jackets offer understated refinement. Delicate zari, Chikankari, tonal embroidery, florals and three-dimensional applique remain prominent. Her signature experimentation juxtaposes tweed with lace, feathers with embroidery, and leatherette with intricate handwork. The festival collection also explores unexpected combinations of gotta and lace, with fringes and tassels adding movement to embellished pieces.
Jaya Rathore
Pre-draped saris, Anarkalis, shararas, wide-leg trousers, corset-inspired blouses, capes and long jackets, with asymmetric drapes and clever layering – this festival season is about embracing modern silhouettes, says Jaya Rathore. For men, relaxed kurtas, Angrakha-inspired cuts, cropped jackets, bandhgalas and longline Nehru jackets are trending. Traditional zari, dabka and resham meet sequins, pearls, crystals and muted metallics, while floral, Mughal, lotus and architectural motifs remain prominent. Three-dimensional embroidery, raised florals and applique add texture and depth. Rather than all-over embellishment, strategically placed or tone-on-tone embroidery on borders, necklines, cuffs and blouse panels creates a lighter, contemporary couture aesthetic in antique gold, champagne and silver.
Aisha Rao
Hybrid silhouettes and vibrant applique define Aisha Rao’s festive aesthetic. Her bronze-ivory Interaurum mesh sari lehenga from the ‘Inter-Hana’ collection combines a sari’s fluidity with a lehenga’s structure, while sculptural fishtail lehengas create statuesque contours. Jewel tones, lavender, deep seal brown and ivory dominate the palette. Younger fashionistas favour vibrant shararas, Khwaab co-ords and the regal Ameeran Anarkali. Menswear, meanwhile, explores cropped bandhgalas, sweeping coats, fluid stoles and revived safas. And her ‘Dev’ look pairs contemporary tailoring with floor-grazing Chanderi silk dhoti pants, balancing structure and movement.
Dolly J
Men’s Diwali dressing is embracing understated sophistication, with classic Indian silhouettes reimagined through sharper cuts, richer textures and relaxed tailoring. Open jackets and contemporary interpretations of achkans and sherwanis are gaining favour. Embroidery is becoming more considered, with Kashidakari, subtle zardozi, tonal threadwork and delicate motifs replacing heavy embellishment. A hint of shimmer or an intricately worked jacket makes a statement without appearing overdone. “This year men are going to have a little more fun with festival dressing,” says Dolly J, highlighting experimentation with proportions, layering, unexpected colours and textures, while retaining an overall sense of refinement.
Gautam Gupta
Heirloom textiles and collectible craftsmanship are defining festival dressing, with younger buyers increasingly appreciating embroidery histories. There is renewed demand for handmade zardozi, French knots and Gara Parsi work, says Gautam Gupta. Familiar Anarkalis and kurta-shararas are refreshed through contrasting fabrics, layered textures and inventive embroidery placements. Comfort drives fluid silhouettes, asymmetric hems, bell sleeves, wider necklines and capes layered over bustiers or draped saris. Men are preferring shorter kurtas and jackets paired with wider trousers, pleated dhotis and draped pants or longer jackets over relatively simple inner layers. The overall mood favours elegant cuts, ease, richness and individuality over excessive bling, says the designer.
Maheka Mirpuri
“Dressing for the season of celebration is about bringing the glamour of another era into today without making it feel like a costume,” says Maheka Mirpuri. Inspired by old Bombay wardrobes, her aesthetic celebrates brocade, power shoulders, exaggerated lapels and cuffs, ornate jewellery, pearls, vintage zari and gotta. Statement pieces lead the way — structured brocade jackets, corseted pre-draped saris, Paithani skirts, voluminous shararas and pearl-tasselled blouses. A lehenga can become a Paithani skirt with a beautifully crafted blouse. A traditional silhouette can become a voluminous sharara. A simple outfit can be transformed with an extraordinary brocade jacket and ornate jewellery. Corsetry, cinched waists and dramatic sleeves add theatricality. For men, sharply tailored bandhgalas, shorter kurtas and statement jackets offer alternatives to conventional festive wear.
Yavi by Yadvi Agarwal
People have become much more confident in dressing themselves, says Yadvi Agarwal. The focus is on dressing that feels individual rather than OTT. Think statement gemstone jewellery with reimagined shirts, textured skirts, printed jumpsuits or dramatic jackets. Yavi’s autumn/winter 2026 collection translates botanical drawings, travel memories and landscapes into hand embroidery, as seen in its Tuscany and Wool Luxe stories. Traditional textiles such as Mashru, Patola, Bandhani and Leheriya find contemporary expression through unexpected styling and handwork.
Vrinda Sachdev and Gurinder Singh, Qbik
Qbik’s festival vocabulary blurs the boundaries between Indian and western dressing, with versatile gilets, bombers and shackets designed for fusion styling. For women, fish-cut skirts with corsets, structured jackets with defined shoulders, high-waisted trousers, draped skirts and pre-stitched saris with geometric pleats and bralettes take centre stage. Menswear embraces dhotis, retro-modern boot-cut trousers and hand-embroidered cummerbunds. The label’s signature experimentation comes through textural contrasts — lace against metal overlays, crystals, rivets, glass beads and hand-cut appliques. A standout innovation is its updated underwire featuring a laser-cut metal racerback that resembles intricately embroidered body armour.
Hemant & Nandita
This festival season, women are gravitating towards contemporary pieces that transition effortlessly between celebrations. “Rich textures like brocade, jacquard and lace, along with our custom prints inspired by India, bring a celebratory feel while keeping the overall look modern,” says Nandita. Fluid, feminine silhouettes that allow movement are central to the label’s aesthetic. Their Fall ’26 collection reflects this approach through pieces such as the Ishi Long Dress and Rasa One Shoulder Dress, suited to festival dinners, cocktail evenings and after-parties. Self-fabric detailing, intricate surface work and embroidered textures introduce dimension and occasion-worthy glamour without excessive ornamentation.
Jatin Malik
“We’re going to see a lot of light layering this Diwali,” says Jatin Malik. “It could be a layered kurta, a jacket over a simpler silhouette, or even different textures coming together.” Jewellery is a much bigger part of festival dressing, adds the couturier. Chokers, especially, are going to be quite prominent, he adds. What’s more, this conversation is no longer limited to women. Men have also started embracing jewellery and accessories. A necklace, a brooch, a statement ring, or a considered accessory can completely change a relatively simple outfit. Gowns are omnipresent. Women are looking for a twist on the tried-and-tested silhouette, like a backless gown with traditional embroidery, says Malik.
Varun Bahl
The move is towards versatility, with lehengas paired with jackets or contemporary blouses; saris reimagined through pre-draped silhouettes, sari skirts and unexpected styling; and embroidered separates incorporated into existing wardrobes. Trousers, skirts and coordinated sets are also gaining popularity. For men, traditional kurtas and sherwanis remain relevant, alongside growing interest in bandhgalas, tailored jackets, embroidered shirts and relaxed kurtas with contemporary trousers. “There is more room for relaxed tailoring and shorter jackets,” says Varun Bahl, adding that classic silhouettes are evolving through fabric, colour and detailing, while florals are becoming more abstract, tonal and textural. He emphasises that luxury need not mean excessive embellishment; refinement lies in colour, proportion and silhouette. Versatility is equally important: An embroidered jacket can complement a lehenga or trousers, while a couture blouse can transform multiple looks. Similarly, menswear jackets and bandhgalas can transition between traditional and relaxed wardrobes, making re-wearing and restyling increasingly significant.
Manoviraj Khosla
“We are working on different textures with sherwanis and bandhgalas with kurtas. Kurtas, though, have a new spin,” says Manoviraj Khosla. “They now come armed with zips, for instance.” Cotton sherwanis with ikkat are in, says the designer. One always does embroidered sherwanis, he adds, but “we are moving away from them. Everyone wants something unconventional”. People don’t want the same things with embroidery around the collar and placket, he explains. He is of the view that bundis are also on their way out. “We do sleeveless jackets on top of kurtas, but longer jackets — knee length — and printed bandhgalas in burnt velvet do very well on Diwali.”
Shehla Khan
For men, layering, subdued embroidery, sharper cuts, and mixing a bit of western vibe with Indian silhouettes are trending now, says the designer. For women, there is a growing preference for pre-draped saris, lighter fabrics, easy-to-wear silhouettes, and sharara pants. Textured fabrics with less embroidery and more definition in silhouette and drape are a significant trend.
